PSFW’18: Socio-political statements take the runway!

Day one of the Sunsilk PFDC Fashion Week 2018 rolled out last night, with a set of evening shows of Spring/Summer pret-wear setting trends for the season. While expectations were low with a lineup that did not seem particularly enticing at first glance, it can safely be said that the evening belonged to the young and creative and set the mood for the upcoming days just right!

Following the format of group shows introduced last year, the shows were staged in two separate halls, allowing different setups. The first segment had an interesting X-shaped runway while the second was a simple black walkway. This year also introduced the PEL Craft/Design segment, in collaboration with four designers with jewellery by Reama Malik.

While problems like bad lighting and haphazard seating were ever-present, the night had a fresh young vibe that kept the energy high. Other than summery attires that took the runway, day one also surprisingly turned out to be a statement-holding platform for inclusivity and gender equality!

 

PEL Craft/Design: Zonia Anwaar, Jeem by Hamza Bokhari, Shahroze Tariq, Akif Mahmood

 

 

In collaboration with ace jewellery designer Reama Malik, designers Zonia Anwaar, Shahroze Tariq, Hamza Asghar Bokhari and Akif Mahmood presented capsule collections that celebrated local craft. Each designer brought a playful spin to traditional craft and embroidery with summery silhouettes, which were further contemporized by Reama’s Gold Lure of chunky gold pieces.

Zonia’s white pieces were either breezy summer dresses or smart tops and pants layered with waistcoats to give a modern vibe. One could easily conceptualize how well they would translate from runway to retail and make for good wearable summer fashion. Jeem too went for the modern vibe with boxy tunics and dramatic high-low hems, managing to stand out yet be fashionably practical.

While Akif’s boho-chic peplums too were trendy, Shahroz’s more sleek and pastel pieces were quite forgettable amidst the other three capsule displays.

What, or rather who, stole the show though was Maavia; the transgender model who walked the runway to great applause for Hamza Bokhari’s capsule collection. The Pakistan Fashion Design Council has made history by courageously providing its platform to a trans model and making a grand statement of inclusivity.

 

Hira Ali - Woman is Future

 

 

‘Woman is future’ was a pumped up show that made for a great watch as models walked out holding signboards with slogans like ‘Fight like a girl’. But the show sadly overshadowed the outfits themselves. The ensembles felt too Topshop inspired, and the excessive dramatic elements in each did not work well enough together.

 

Hussain Rehar - Sunken Reverie

 

 

The designer’s debut runway collection was as strong as his entrance in the fashion industry. In a short time, Hussain has managed to establish a signature aesthetic that most designers are unable to in a lifetime and his aqua-inspired collection was cohesive and interesting. While some of the ensembles did feel repetitive of his previous collections, the colours and contemporary ensembles brought excitement to the runway, as did the unique 3D elements in his pieces.

 

Arjumand Bano - My Head is a Jungle

 

 

Arjumand’s ‘My Head is a Jungle’ was inspired by the song of the same name. Botanical prints and colours were designed into breezy pieces complemented with layers and statement details like ruffles and asymmetrical touches. While botanical prints are now common in the market, it was the Gucci-like  jewelled animal motifs that caught the eye. One can see the collection resonate well in the party-going market, even if it wasn’t as innovative as one might have liked.

 

Sania Maskatiya – Colour Dash

 

 

The award-winning designer played on her strengths to present a fuss-free collection of bold monochromes and a dash of colour. The eclectic psychedelic prints were styled into Sania’s signature drapes and such, which made for great party wear without being overtly dramatic. The prints were certainly eye-catching, but the trendy statement silhouettes stood out to make each piece wearable without being boring!

 

• Photography by Faisal Farooqui @Dragonfly