Darya. It’s a word that flows, and when used in fashion, it hints at the flow of ideas. Darya also alludes to darya dil, and when used in fashion one senses an abundance of grandeur and richness. But that is just our interpretation of Mahgul’s collection shown at the PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Week earlier this week.
“The word darya is almost a synonym for Mahgul, the brand,†the media shy designer expressed in a conversation we had after fashion week. Undoubtedly one of the strongest showcases in the three day event, Darya was a place where ideas, innovation and craft came together. “I like to create a dialogue between my ideas and my work and a river is a place where things come together.â€
The blue sari
One could see that the play with the word was very metaphorical, with the most brilliant shades of blue being the only reference to its relationship with water. From the intricately embellished column shirt that Sabika wore as the opening piece through the delicate blue printed lehngas and saris, Darya flowed in seamless harmony. The silhouettes were so diverse, from velvet lehngas to silk saris, handcrafted tunics to jackets encrusted with 3D elements, almost like barnacles in tidal waters. The whole collection was so very lyrical.
How long did it take to create something as exquisite as this?
“Conceptually it takes very long,†Mahgul said, adding that the sketches took 6-7 months. “It has to be technically sound,†she added. “I have to see the brand’s identity evolve in the samples.â€
One of our favourite pieces was the blue hybrid sari and we just had to know more about it.
“You know how I love to drape,†Mahgul explained, “and this is a draped structure that has a sleeve. It’s actually draped and pleated almost like a toga. And it’s a print that we created.â€
The apple green jacket
Mahgul created the prints to add valuable detailing to the designs. An apple green sleeveless jacket, for example, was lined with this unique print because the designer wanted it to go beyond standard stuff. She wanted it to flow beyond desi weddings, which is why so many contemporary silhouettes were added.
“The commercial side to designing frustrates me,†Mahgul commented, very honestly. “But I really don’t care anymore. If I show then my work needs to speak to me and I enjoyed the conversation I had with this collection. I developed a bond with this collection.â€
This chaddor draped around Mehreen Syed was one of Mahgul’s favourite pieces. It took 8 sketches to get here. “It kept evolving, almost as if it were speaking to me,†Mahgul says.
Fortunately integrity is a quality that works in design and that is what elevated Mahgul’s collection over and above most of what we saw at fashion week.
- Photography by Faisal Farooqui
