Fashion Pakistan Week rolled out its Spring Summer 2018 edition, last night, with what promised to be a concise two days of fashion.
Social causes of various kinds took center stage, from Gulabo’s socio-political statement to conserve our country’s resources, to Cheena Chhapra’s delightful models of varying ages and different sizes dancing their way on the runway. Amir Adnan bought out hearing impaired models from the JS Academy for the Deaf, while Huma Adnan’s collection featured chunky jewellery made by refugee women in Karachi. Gogi by Hassan Riaz too made a statement against child labour with emblazoned experimental wear.
While each cause was applauded greatly, how far did the fashion factor succeed? Here’s the lowdown:
Gulabo
Maheen Khan showed us a loud and proud version of ‘Jinnah’s Pakistan’, with her signature contemporary wear. The outfits featured unique prints, plus text that called out with slogans like ‘Save water’, ‘Save the earth’ and the most interesting ‘Say no to paisa phek tamasha dekh’.
Strengths: The prints stood out from everything we’ve seen, with their statement making text, while the silhouettes were versatile and experimental. Zippy pants, and layered tops were quintessential Gulabo and totally cool.
Weaknesses: There may have been an overdrive of causes behind this collection. While the ‘Save water’ slogans made for interesting graphic tops, the ‘Mein Bhi’ slogan felt out of place and unnecessary here.
Fnk Asia
Pegah featured a soft colour palette and embroidered fabric, paired with chunky silver jewellery and belts, mixing ethnic with contemporary elements.
Strengths: The classic white, free-flowing silhouettes had a great cooling effect and were perfect for the season. Paired with the white-on-white embroidery they made for smart contemporary wear.
Weaknesses: The outfits on showstoppers Zara Noor Abbas and Noor Khan were quite uninventive in their silhouettes and embroidery.
Gogi by Hassan Riaz
Gogi’s was a collection that was dramatic and over the top like no other. It was flashy and featured dramatic colours and silhouettes. Not for the faint hearted, the collection was well constructed but more costume than clothing.
Strengths: The popping colour combinations and sequinned numbers can be deconstructed into great statement wear for those who dare.
Weaknesses: Over-designed to the max, all the outfits dramatically blended together, while some simply looked outrageous.
Amir Adnan
The Beast showed a bespoke, environmentally conscious collection, which features one-of-a-kind pieces made from ‘upcycled’ vintage sherwanis.
Strengths: The embellished motifs added an interesting element to the well-constructed menswear.
Weaknesses: There was far too much velvet, which is neither fashionable nor feasible for Spring/Summer!
The PinkTree Company
PinkTree brought out their love for traditional wear with beautiful summery colours for the festive summer season. Crinkled lehgnas and gota work is after all a much loved classic.
Strengths: The silhouettes, the embellishments, the gota and kirran duppatas were all timeless pieces and proved that PinkTree continues to excel in its ode to the bygone era, time and time again.
Weaknesses: Though beautiful, the clothes weren’t fashion forward. How far will they work in the market is something that can be questioned.
Cheena Chhapra
The designer made her FPW debut with real women of every age and size, replacing models on the runway. She brought out traditional wear, with the use of Phulkari and block prints.
Strengths: The women who totally owned the runway were definitely the highlight of the show. The ensembles on the other hand featured some great long jackets that were ethnic yet contemporary.
Weaknesses: Most of the ensembles lacked innovation, and the ‘classic’ factor of the outfits could have been played upon better.
Yasmin Jiwa
The designer expanded her Paris Fashion Week Collection, presenting a range of evening wear in grey-blue tones.
Strengths: Some of the silhouettes caught the eye with their asymmetrical hemlines, and the shalwar-saari was certainly a fun addition.
Weaknesses: Most of the ensembles were over-designed, and the experimentation got lost in transition, while others simply got lost for their lack-lustre.
Farah Talib Aziz
The acclaimed designer made her fashion week debut with her trademark feminine wear. The summery pastels, pearls and her signature lacey details are consumer favourites for young girls, and this collection will surely be the same.
Strengths: The white lowers were very versatile, from dhotis to net skirts each was different and gave a perfect breezy summer feel.
Weaknesses: The pastels and feminine elements made the collection quite indistinguishable from what all we’ve already seen by the designer.
