FPW Summer 2013 2.1/2

2.1/2 means this is the first half of Day Two and before I start my two bit reviews, can I just say that it was CRIMINAL that we had to sit through the good and mostly bad and ugly of a delayed show that ended at 12:30. It was stressful and completely unprofessional. Someone said this was FPW’s 5th season but given the lack of discipline in timing it could very well have been their first. Over to the shows…

Shamaeel Ansari SS 2013

I absolutely loved the ethereal and delicate wispiness of Shamaeel’s collection that visited the Orient in a very quintessential way. Spring Summer 2013 was gentle and feminine, retaining elements of embroidered detailing, silk print and design in pale shades of pearl pink, jade green and strong black. Shamaeel’s signature is so strong that one can pinpoint and enjoy it from a distance. This collection was a winner.

Arsalan & Yahseer SPECTACLE BLANC

Arsalan & Yahseer put a lot of effort into their designs and it shows; they may not always be on the mark but the jackets in this collection certainly were. Also, it was a relief to see Abbas Jafri and Khawar Riaz’s models on the runway – they were flown in by the designers especially for this show – and they certainly did make the collection look better. This show did not have the strong hold of Republic but it did have promising elements that A&Y must develop with a signature.

Ayesha Ibrahim ROCK AN ROLL (sic)

For someone who has been making clothes since 1999 it was apparent that Ayesha Ibrahim belonged at home with her verandah tailors and not on a fashion week platform. This ‘tie and die’ (sic) was literally that: death by design.

Kayseria R2W

This was technically a fabric show – which ideally belongs at a textile fair – but the fact that Kayseria is launching its own ready to wear line made it very relevant to fashion week. It’s always refreshing to see textile giants diversify into fashionable arenas and Kayseria is already retailing ready to wear at its stores. I hear that the big launch will take place around Eid.

Obaid Sheikh ELISE

Obaid Sheikh’s Elise was a collection of clothes that you’re likelier to see in Kehkashan or Ghousia market. What the fashion council found fashionable is questionable. Together with Ayesha Ibrahim, we could have saved 40 minutes on this needlessly long day had they not passed the selection.

Ishtiaq Afzal GUL KARI

There were occasional elements that worked in Ishtiaq Afzal’s otherwise very poorly put together collection. But the fitting was out and I couldn’t help think of Mohsin Ali, Akif Ilyas, Wardha Saleem and all those creative and fabulous kids who have done ethnicity better.

Sania Maskatiya NAQSH

Prints: check, Patterns: check, Design: check, Finish: check, Cohesion & Signature: check. Sania Maskatiya’s collection was perfect; it took the hemlines and trouser waists up, played with trends and gave women a fresh and energetic palette of colours for spring summer. She gets a double check on fabulousnes especially because every delightful outfit will be available at her stores in Karachi and Lahore by the end of this month. Bankruptcy: check.

Photos by Faisal Faroooqui courtesy Lotus PR