Mahgul’s looking at lawn with a difference

We’ve stepped into May and women’s wardrobes are tipping over with lawn prints of the season, however with the nationwide launch of Mahgul’s debut lawn collection on May 8, I can say with certainty that one of the best ranges is yet to come. Working with Al Zohaib as one of the designers to partner with the textile mill this summer, Mahgul is redefining the peripheries of how lawn has come to be perceived and worn. Her aesthetic is unusual, confident and brave in its departure from the proverbial ‘run of the mill’ take on the botanical gardens. That’s just the ethos that you expect from Mahgul; the collection is unapologetic in its intellect.

“The artist in me found it mind boggling to see a work of intricacy being created in mass volume,” Mahgul said, when we spoke about the creative process of designing her debut lawn collection. “I’m excited but I’m used to micro managing my designs; I have to find a way to embrace this change of scale. I want to make every sheep look like a unicorn but I know that’s a difficult thing to do.”

Talking to Mahgul, I realized the internal struggle she must have gone through. Being a designer invested in every single piece she creates, this was a ‘letting-go’ moment, in which she had to create and then let her work go to the cookie cutter of mass production. She says it was an overwhelming process but I asked her how easy or difficult it was for her to actually conceptualize this 24-piece lawn collection and how adventurous she allowed herself to be with her designs considering the very inflexible guidelines to what sells.

“As a designer I try to look at what is lacking in the market; to add the missing link,” Mahgul said. “I give myself parameters to follow. I look at the don’ts not the do’s. I felt lawn needed breathing space. I wanted to give it visual direction and I wanted to retain a connection to my ethos, to Mahgul. I’ve tried to make my collection as versatile as possible while keeping a little bit of myself in each design.”

White on white, this is one of Mahgul’s favourite designs.

That is exactly what her fans wanted from her lawn and that is what she has created. There are no generic designs and not a single colour and print combination that appears excessive or stifling. There does appear to be breathing space and free flow in her prints; the colours are adventurous without getting into shades of ghastly. Best of all, it appears from the catalogue, that the lawn comes in its simpler form, without too many add-ons and fringe benefits.

“There is a value that the client expects so I had to add embroidery but it’s very minimal,” Mahgul explained. “I’ve chosen all the embroideries to my best ability and women can also not use them. The designs will still work.”

 Would her lawn be cost effective?

“People are quite happy with the prices and I think it’s good value for money,” she said. “We’re retailing at 6490 for the simpler outfits and 6790 for the heavier ones. Design 15 is my favourite because technically it gives you two shirts and beautiful embroidery. The print is very simple and minimalist. The pant is very obscure but very Mahgul. It’s a classic. I don’t want people to throw or give away their lawn next year. So I made it classic and not seasonal.”

She also kept her catalogue classic, trying her best to draw lawn into fashion but suggesting styles that are unique and unconventional.

“Basically I’ve tried to highlight the use of the dupatta,” she explained how various trends were introduced. “I think women should experiment with their dupattas. I also wanted to push the boundaries between lawn and fashion. Women should use their dupattas even after they’re done with their lawn. I want to design lawn saris eventually and embroidered lawn dupattas, which we have introduced in one of the designs. We’ve used belts on kimono style kurtas (9A), we’ve done rumaal cuts (9B). We did a belted look for 11 and one iconic design is the red gaara, which is reflective of one of our earlier designs Mahira Khan wore. The red (below) is inspired by my pret design. I pushed ‘Mahgul’ into each and every design.”

With designs that reflect her unique design ethos, Mahgul intends to target women who don’t generally wear lawn.

Another great feature of the collection is that it’s pure lawn, Mahgul says, unlike the net, silk, jacquard and organza that labels have been offering in the name of lawn.

“The market asks for silk dupattas,” she admitted to that restriction,” but the suits are pure lawn. No net or anything else. The patches and borders are minimal. Lawn should be convenient to make and simple to wear. At the end of the day it shouldn’t be a headache to put together.”

Mahgul’s collection for Al Zohaib goes online today and while she has signed a three-year contract with the textile mill, she is unsure of what the future holds. Fashion excites her and she wants to make lawn fashionable but at the same time she is overwhelmed by the size and scale of lawn production. She’s intimidated by the fact that a design she has conceptualized, nurtured and created ends up in hundreds of thousands of impersonally packaged plastic bags. She is an artist and she is unsure of how she’ll feel about her creativity crossing over into a commercial realm. Can she strike the balance?

“Lawn is a powerful tool but let’s see,” she smiled.

• If you live in Lahore then you might want to attend a special lawn customer preview/pre booking event happening at Saleem Fabrics in Liberty tomorrow Saturday at 5PM.

Credits: Ayesha Noon Khan – Mahgul’s muse and stylist, Mahgul Rashid – creative director, Amir Rashid – business director, Alee Hasan – photographer and Roman – videographer